I spent the last 4.5 days in Churchill, Manitoba - population: 990, 700, or 550, depending on who you talk to. Located roughly 1,005 KM northeast of Winnipeg, Churchill is by far, one of the most remote places I have ever been. Famously known as the polar bear capital of the world, the town is roughly one city block from end-to-end and can be strolled through in about 8 minutes (faster if you're being chased by a bear...just kidding...if you're ever attacked by a polar bear, it's a fight for your life - you'll never outrun it - they can get upwards of 50 KPH).
I arrived to no cell phone reception (ahem...Rogers), but thanks to the
Lazy Bear Lodge (where, btw, Prime Minister Stephen Harper stayed in August 2010...if it's good enough for the PM, it's good enough for me), I had access to WIFI, which meant e-mail, Facebook, Twitter and BBM. I also arrived to the first of many amazing meals - some of the best I'd ever had in my life.
My first meal was at the Lazy Bear, where I had the choice of several local specialties, including muskox and caribou. After much hemming and hawing, I decided on the Arctic char, baked in dill and served in a butter sauce. There were also veggies and sweet potato mash, but the star was definitely the char...though the fries and gravy deserve a special mention.
The char was incredible...the texture is somewhere between salmon and halibut, but the appearance resembles trout. The butter sauce was delicious, though not something I could have everyday.
I was there with a business contact JL - now friend - who was kind enough to share her caribou with me. The caribou had the texture of pot roast and reminded me of a stronger, gamier kind of beef. This is the Lodge's most well-known dish - and for good reason. I'm not one to eat lamb or anything stronger than beef or pork, but this caribou...I could see myself ordering it. It was THAT good.
Beyond the Lodge, there are a few more places to eat, but the most well-known would have to be
Gypsy's. A one-stop shop for breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert, Gypsy's is a bakery/diner and by far, the most frequented place for food in Churchill. I've been there for every eating event listed above and each time I was blown away.
The owner, Helen is from Portugal and has been running the place for 10 years. Along with her family, the restaurant runs like a well-oiled machine. Not knowing what to eat my first time there, Helen's son recommended I try the spicy pork sandwich, smothered in onions with a side of fries. Let's just say there were no leftovers. In fact, I even ate ALL the bread, which I tend not to do because I worry about carbs.
I also tried (on the next day), the sausage sandwich - but without the fries. Again, I ate everything - it was just too good not to.
And I haven't even talked about the pastries yet. I consider myself a pecan/butter tart snob, but Gypsy's once again, managed to impress. JL tried the apple fritter...but it was made special just for her. Helen's son cut the fritter in half, slathered it in butter and warmed it up. JL described the snack as heavenly.
I myself, had a freshly baked rhubarb pie with not one, but TWO scoops of vanilla ice cream. To be clear, I find rhubarb disgusting, but this...THIS was a party in my mouth.
I have to add that Martha Stewart has also visited Gypsy's and found it to be incredible. In fact, numerous autographed photos from different celebrities and dignitaries adorn the walls of this place.
Then there Tundra. A bar/pub that's part of
Tundra Inn across the street, Tundra proved to be the biggest culinary surprise of all. I wasn't sure about the pierogies, but they were the best I'd ever had. Pan-fried and covered with onions and real bacon (none of those artificial bacon bits), I'm willing to bet that even my pierogie connoisseur friend would rave about these things.
But eating in Churchill isn't limited to the indoors - there are plenty of yummy outdoor foods too. Just outside of Churchill proper is a wealth of fresh berries - raspberries, gooseberries, cloudberries and blueberries. The blueberries were by far my favourite. While smaller in size than what we get here in Ontario, these blueberries are also much sweeter. I must've ate 2 cups of fresh-picked ones (no worries about pesticides here). The local berries also get made into jams - all of which I brought back.
I wasn't sure what to expect when I was being sent to Churchill for work, but I definitely wasn't thinking culinary paradise. Would I ever go back to Churchill? Yes: for the whales, for the polar bears and definitely for the food.
